Rivets Technique PART 2 stressed skin

Rivets Technique PART 2 stressed skin


1) A scalpel with a round crescent-shaped blade

2) An indelible marble, DVD type

3) Nerve glass paper P 1000.P 1200 .P 2500

4) Polishing ointments of all types, removing small scratches, polished as well as polishing candles. You will find them in car products (polishing, car painting). We want one with a medium type, in emery and a type of wax, the very liquid.

I urge you to get two small empty vases and visit your bodybuilder. You will need a minimum amount. Do not buy a package that will be useless to you (Be careful, these products are in liquid form. Type http: // www. ptheodorou.gr/itemlist.php?cat=21230&show=default

5) A proxxon or Dremel tool with photo accessories

6) A ruler, preferably a metal plate, a filler-type plate

7) Millimeter block

8) A diabetes with two noses (for measurement)

9) The Riveter tool with the scale washer that will be your kit. I work two, one with a normal washer for open surfaces and one with a small washer for difficult areas.

10) A Dymo tape as a guide for your marker

11) A toothbrush or a thick brush. To wipe or wash the work surface.

12) A saw Ultra Fine and Extra Fine razor saw: CMK / Czech Master Kits CMKH1000 or anything that will help you clean the line, for the final finish.

   A) Starting to lead you to the steps you need to follow.

I want to make it clear that I prefer to do this technique. Passing piece by piece, from the kit.

The reason I follow this procedure is because I cut rudders. I open prey or put improvements on my models. By logic, to better control progress and along the way I stick and build the model.

 (I don't stick the kit, because I put pressure on the surface and I can do damage.)

I chose for the presentation, two pieces of kit with different quality plastic.

(TAMYIA & EDUART) We have all noticed that every company has a different hardness.

Be aware that soft plastic is the best results and does not require temperatures from the Dremel brush!

While hard plastic, we have to be more diligent in carving and scratching!

   The first step is to get the design with rivets and after I have chosen. A piece of the fuselage (for example) and I have studied specific images.

I count and mark with the marker. The two ends. First vertically and then, the same process horizontally
B) Use your scalpel to make small marks on the points where the line is the little one. Where they intersect with a vertical line, we will stop and continue, in the same directions. We will repeat the same process with a scraper.

I have made one, from an old scalpel, which I sharpened in front. Which you can do first. It scratches easily and without damaging the plastic.

   C) The next step is to rub with a damp paper towel P 1000.P 1200 .P 2500. (Wrap it like a washer or place it a little, on a stick as in the photo.) We have to rub all the wildness on the surface. To be as smooth as possible.
D) Dremel has a fabric brush, special for polishing and with the help of ointment.

It will help you identify small imperfections that are not visible to the naked eye.

The procedure may need to be repeated! However, you need to be careful, because the imperfections will be visible when the first color falls. Spend some time at this point !!
E) For the end, we pass the design again (With the rivets) and re-engrave our model.

This time with the Riveter tool with the scale roller that is our kit

and with a guide, a Dymo movie. Repeat one last rub with

sandpaper P 1200 P 1500.P 2500 .A point we need to see is the line.

We clean it with a saw or an engraver, to indicate which remains.

The model should be thoroughly washed with a toothbrush, the thick brush. (With soap and water for the dishes before painting)

  Some planes have rivets with a head, which is difficult to attribute to a staircase. Drive the Riveter with your experience!
The process is persistent and needs your attention at all stages! Take an old piece and do your tests on it. Experiment with all the steps. I'm sure you'll love it.

You can work two or three nights, more. But the end result will take off the simplest kit. Just when it's time to paint metallic colors. Remember that a proper engraving should not be deep!